{"id":10252,"date":"2026-09-04T15:30:15","date_gmt":"2026-09-04T13:30:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=10252"},"modified":"2026-09-04T17:28:45","modified_gmt":"2026-09-04T15:28:45","slug":"le-palais-francois-henri-deserable","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/le-palais-francois-henri-deserable\/","title":{"rendered":"[\u00c9d. Gallimard] \u00ab Le Palais \u00bb de Fran\u00e7ois-Henri D\u00e9s\u00e9rable"},"content":{"rendered":"

Il est des vins jeunes dont on se dit qu\u2019ils promettent. On en go\u00fbte un, on l\u2019appr\u00e9cie, et l\u2019on se prend \u00e0 attendre le mill\u00e9sime suivant avec impatience. Ainsi de Fran\u00e7ois-Henri D\u00e9s\u00e9rable. On avait go\u00fbt\u00e9 Tu montreras ma t\u00eate au peuple<\/em> (2013) ; \u00c9variste<\/em> (2015) \u00e9tait rest\u00e9 en bouche ; Mon ma\u00eetre et mon vainqueur<\/em> (2021 \u2013 Grand prix du roman de l\u2019Acad\u00e9mie fran\u00e7aise) avait des notes acidul\u00e9es tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9ables. En cette rentr\u00e9e litt\u00e9raire 2026, voici donc Le Palais<\/em> (\u00e9ditions Gallimard), une fiction \u00e9pique dessin\u00e9e autour d\u2019Arun Kumar, un prodige aux papilles absolues. Malgr\u00e9 son tr\u00e8s jeune \u00e2ge, son palais est au vin ce que l\u2019oreille de Mozart \u00e9tait \u00e0 la musique : la r\u00e9f\u00e9rence absolue.<\/p>\n

Et nous voil\u00e0 embarqu\u00e9s dans un tour du monde des vignes et des saveurs : des bidonvilles de Delhi aux caves de Bourgogne, des \u00eeles Marquises aux tours de Manhattan, le roman multiplie les escales et les d\u00e9gustations. Chaque cru devient une fen\u00eatre ouverte sur un paysage, une \u00e9poque, une m\u00e9moire. Certains vins sont d\u00e9crits comme des \u0153uvres d\u2019art, d\u2019autres comme des \u00e9nigmes qu\u2019il faut apprendre \u00e0 d\u00e9chiffrer. \u00ab Certains vins rec\u00e9laient davantage de beaut\u00e9 que l\u2019esprit humain n\u2019en pouvait concevoir, des harmoniques si subtiles, si profondes, qu\u2019aucun po\u00e8me, aucun tableau, aucune symphonie, aucun monument n\u2019aurait pu les \u00e9galer \u00bb, \u00e9crit l\u2019auteur.<\/p>\n

Au point qu\u2019Arun, venu des bas-fonds indiens et adopt\u00e9 par une famille de restaurateurs bourguignons, invente un vocabulaire pour rendre ce que personne n\u2019avait ressenti jusqu\u2019alors. \u00ab Ainsi naquirent \u201crisambre\u201d, ce go\u00fbt de bois ancien chauff\u00e9 par une lampe d\u2019architecte, entre poussi\u00e8re et vernis blond ; et la \u201cvellune\u201d, cette saveur min\u00e9rale et lact\u00e9e qui rappelait la coquille d\u2019un \u0153uf \u00e0 la coque encore ti\u00e8de ; ou encore le mot \u201ccr\u00e9murien\u201d, pour cette rondeur de cire fondue m\u00eal\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019encens ti\u00e8de. \u00bb Le lecteur est pris par l\u2019ivresse des grands crus qui coulent \u00e0 chaque page : Corton-Charlemagne, Gevrey-Chambertin, Roman\u00e9e-Conti, Chambolle-Musigny, Cantemerle\u2026 mais aussi par des nectars plus confidentiels que D\u00e9s\u00e9rable fait entrer dans la lumi\u00e8re avec la m\u00eame gourmandise, comme ce kvevri g\u00e9orgien au grain sauvage. Pour qui veut se plonger dans les d\u00e9lices de Bacchus, ces pages sont \u00e0 rouler sous la langue. D\u00e9s\u00e9rable sait rendre l\u2019\u0153nologie sensuelle \u00e0 celui ou celle qui ne la conna\u00eet gu\u00e8re. Toute une mythologie du vin se r\u00e9v\u00e8le.<\/p>\n

Mais le don absolu est aussi un pouvoir absolu. Et le jeune Arun va le d\u00e9couvrir en soulevant le voile sur les travers de ce monde d\u2019initi\u00e9s. Car le vin est aussi sp\u00e9culation, injustice, argent, vanit\u00e9 et trahisons. Dans cet univers o\u00f9 certaines bouteilles valent des milliers, voire des millions d\u2019euros, le go\u00fbt se mue en arme, et le palais d\u2019Arun en instrument de vengeance. Car que vaut r\u00e9ellement un grand vin ? Dans le monde qu\u2019explore D\u00e9s\u00e9rable, celui qui poss\u00e8de le pouvoir de go\u00fbter sans se tromper poss\u00e8de aussi celui de faire et d\u00e9faire les croyances. Arun r\u00e9v\u00e8le l’extr\u00eame fragilit\u00e9 d\u2019un syst\u00e8me tout entier fond\u00e9 sur l\u2019avis de quelques initi\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Le roman prend alors un virage picaresque, multipliant les p\u00e9rip\u00e9ties inspir\u00e9es de faits r\u00e9els comme aime \u00e0 les relater D\u00e9s\u00e9rable. On pense \u00e9videmment \u00e0 Rudy Kurniawan, le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre faussaire indon\u00e9sien dont les contrefa\u00e7ons de grands crus furent d\u00e9couvertes au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2010, ou au tout-puissant Robert Parker derri\u00e8re la figure fictive du critique Waterman, dont les jugements ont fait la pluie et le beau temps pendant des d\u00e9cennies. C\u00f4t\u00e9 litt\u00e9rature, la filiation avec Le Parfum<\/em> de Patrick S\u00fcskind est \u00e9vidente : un orphelin, un sens pouss\u00e9 jusqu\u2019au g\u00e9nie, un don qui devient mal\u00e9diction. Mais l\u00e0 o\u00f9 S\u00fcskind faisait de son Grenouille une cr\u00e9ature presque m\u00e9taphysique, D\u00e9s\u00e9rable, lui, reste du c\u00f4t\u00e9 du roman d\u2019aventures. Et c\u2019est l\u00e0, h\u00e9las, la pointe d\u2019amertume de ce nouveau cru : son Arun multiplie les p\u00e9rip\u00e9ties au risque de dissoudre l\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat du propos. Car, chez D\u00e9s\u00e9rable, les meilleurs ar\u00f4mes sont ceux qui naissent de la langue et du verbe, bien davantage que des artifices de l\u2019intrigue. Qu\u2019on ne s\u2019y trompe pas: pour D\u00e9s\u00e9rable, le v\u00e9ritable don n\u2019est pas celui d\u2019Arun. C’est celui de l\u2019\u00e9crivain, lorsqu\u2019il parvient \u00e0 nommer ce que nos sens ont \u00e9prouv\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

Aude Seyssel<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Il est des vins jeunes dont on se dit qu\u2019ils promettent. On en go\u00fbte un, on l\u2019appr\u00e9cie, et l\u2019on se prend \u00e0 attendre le mill\u00e9sime suivant avec impatience. Ainsi de Fran\u00e7ois-Henri D\u00e9s\u00e9rable. On avait go\u00fbt\u00e9 Tu montreras ma t\u00eate au peuple (2013) ; \u00c9variste (2015) \u00e9tait rest\u00e9 en bouche ; Mon ma\u00eetre et mon vainqueur […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":10253,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1167],"tags":[1420,1494,1178],"class_list":["post-10252","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-livre","tag-oenologie","tag-roman","tag-vin"],"yoast_head":"\n[\u00c9d. 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