{"id":10411,"date":"2026-09-29T11:08:28","date_gmt":"2026-09-29T09:08:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=10411"},"modified":"2026-09-29T17:11:39","modified_gmt":"2026-09-29T15:11:39","slug":"ed-folio-briller-de-laurence-cosse","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/ed-folio-briller-de-laurence-cosse\/","title":{"rendered":"[\u00c9d. Folio] \u00ab Briller \u00bb de Laurence Coss\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"

Marie-Louise L\u00e9opoldine Fran\u00e7oise Th\u00e9r\u00e8se Lucie de Habsbourg-Lorraine\u00a0; Guido Henckel von Donnersmarck\u00a0; Victoire Fran\u00e7oise de Saint-Mauris-Montbarrey\u2026 Il faut aimer les dynasties, les sagas familiales, les amours licites et illicites, les rois et les reines, les mondaines et les demi-mondaines, les trahisons spectaculaires, les fuites \u00e9perdues, les couronnements et les disgr\u00e2ces pour se plonger dans Briller<\/em> de Laurence Coss\u00e9 que les \u00e9ditions Folio viennent de publier en poche. Et surtout, appr\u00e9cier tout ce qui brille et scintille\u00a0! Car c\u2019est \u00e0 une travers\u00e9e haletante de l\u2019histoire de la haute joaillerie fran\u00e7aise que nous invite l\u2019auteure, laur\u00e9ate en 2015 du prix de l\u2019Acad\u00e9mie fran\u00e7aise pour l\u2019ensemble de son \u0153uvre.<\/p>\n

Frivolit\u00e9\u00a0! diront certains, pour qui les diad\u00e8mes, bagues, diamants et autres rubis et \u00e9meraudes ne sont que colifichets et vanit\u00e9. Un passe-temps pour familles royales, princi\u00e8res et milliardaires. A cela, Laurence Coss\u00e9 oppose un d\u00e9menti sans \u00e9quivoque\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0les tr\u00e8s belles cr\u00e9ations de joaillerie sont des \u0153uvres d\u2019art\u00a0\u00bb, au m\u00eame titre que les toiles de ma\u00eetre et les sculptures pour lesquelles nous courons toujours plus nombreux les mus\u00e9es du monde entier. \u00ab\u00a0Suivre les heurts et malheurs de la joaillerie est une fa\u00e7on de parcourir l\u2019histoire qui en vaut d\u2019autres\u00bb, affirme-t-elle. Et sa d\u00e9monstration, \u00e9tincelante, se lit comme un roman d\u2019aventure.<\/p>\n

\n

Briller est une parfaite illustration \u00ab des splendeurs et des cruaut\u00e9s du monde \u00bb<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Tout au long de ces quelques 400 pages, Laurence Coss\u00e9 fait revivre la saga d\u2019une quinzaine de joyaux d\u2019exception en trois si\u00e8cles d\u2019histoire depuis la R\u00e9volution fran\u00e7aise, mais aussi la figure de celles et ceux qui les ont d\u00e9sir\u00e9s, offerts, port\u00e9s, cach\u00e9s, vol\u00e9s ou perdus. Sans oublier l\u2019essentiel : ceux -essentiellement des hommes \u2013 qui les ont imagin\u00e9s et fait na\u00eetre dans leurs ateliers gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 leur g\u00e9nie cr\u00e9atif et \u00e0 celui de leurs \u00e9quipes. Tout sp\u00e9cialement la maison Chaumet, avec ses cr\u00e9ateurs hors pair qui donn\u00e8rent successivement leur nom \u00e0 l\u2019institution : les Nitot, les Fossin, les Morel et, bien s\u00fbr, les Chaumet.<\/p>\n

A l\u2019origine, ce livre est en effet une commande aux \u00e9ditions Gallimard de la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre maison du 12, place Vend\u00f4me, \u00e0 Paris. Pour ce travail, l\u2019\u00e9crivaine a eu acc\u00e8s pendant plusieurs mois aux archives exceptionnelles du joaillier qui a pr\u00e9cieusement conserv\u00e9, envers et contre tous les coups d\u2019Etat et toutes les guerres, des milliers de dessins, photographies, r\u00e9pliques, commandes, factures et correspondances attestant de sa discr\u00e8te et vibrionnante activit\u00e9 jusqu\u2019\u00e0 nos jours o\u00f9 elle figure d\u00e9sormais dans le giron du groupe fran\u00e7ais LVMH. Loin de tirer une histoire institutionnelle de ces archives, Laurence Coss\u00e9 a tiss\u00e9 une succession de destins o\u00f9 les pierres sont les t\u00e9moins des passions humaines. Avec, pour toutes, un point commun : les histoires de joyaux finissent mal, en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral.<\/p>\n

On y d\u00e9couvre ainsi l\u2019obsession de Napol\u00e9on 1er pour les diamants dont il couvrait son \u00e9pouse Jos\u00e9phine, jamais rassasi\u00e9e de parures. On suit les p\u00e9r\u00e9grinations des joyaux de la Couronne, toujours admir\u00e9s, port\u00e9s, remont\u00e9s, retaill\u00e9s jusqu\u2019\u00e0 finir, parfois, au fond de la Seine : c\u2019est ainsi que le collier de perles \u00e0 sept rangs de Catherine de Wurtemberg, reine de Westphalie et belle-s\u0153ur de Napol\u00e9on 1er<\/sup>, sera remont\u00e9 des eaux en 1814 par un p\u00eacheur \u00e0 la ligne… Car si les destin\u00e9es humaines peuvent s\u2019av\u00e9rer dramatiques, celles des joyaux le sont tout autant ! Petits, facilement dissimulables et \u00e9changeables, ils sont les premiers sacrifi\u00e9s en cas de coups durs. \u00abLes bijoux disparaissent dans les naufrages, les r\u00e9volutions, les fric-frac, les faillites. Ils ont \u00e9t\u00e9 si bien cach\u00e9s qu\u2019on ne les retrouve jamais. Ils sont vendus l\u2019un apr\u00e8s l\u2019autre par tous les fugitifs de l\u2019histoire\u00bb \u00e9crit Laurence Coss\u00e9. Le vol de huit joyaux imp\u00e9riaux en 2025 au mus\u00e9e du Louvre, \u00e0 Paris \u2013 dont le collier de Marie-Louise serti de 32 \u00e9meraudes et 1138 diamants – en est une nouvelle et spectaculaire d\u00e9monstration !<\/p>\n

Ainsi du somptueux diad\u00e8me Triple Soleil<\/i> offert en 1914 par le prince F\u00e9lix Youssoupoff \u00e0 son \u00e9pouse Irina Romanova, ni\u00e8ce du Tsar Nicolas II : une architecture \u00e9tonnamment moderne et stylis\u00e9e o\u00f9 les diamants font jaillir la lumi\u00e8re. Contraint de fuir la r\u00e9volution russe en 1917, le couple princier s\u2019exile en France et fait cacher ses joyaux dans la ma\u00e7onnerie d\u2019une chemin\u00e9e de leur palais moscovite. Quelques ann\u00e9es plus tard, une photo publi\u00e9e dans la presse r\u00e9v\u00e8le que les bolch\u00e9viques ont retrouv\u00e9 le tr\u00e9sor, d\u00e9mantel\u00e9 le diad\u00e8me et vendu les pierres \u00e0 tous les vents. Il n\u2019en reste rien aujourd\u2019hui.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Etrange destin\u00e9e \u00e9galement que celle du Tr\u00e8fle vert<\/i> offert \u00e0 Eug\u00e9nie par le futur Napol\u00e9on III apr\u00e8s qu\u2019elle eut admir\u00e9 un tr\u00e8fle couvert de ros\u00e9e lors d\u2019une promenade matinale : trois \u00e9meraudes serties autour d\u2019un diamant central. Evapor\u00e9 \u00e0 la mort de l\u2019imp\u00e9ratrice, le joyau est r\u00e9apparu en 1998 – lui, ou une r\u00e9plique en \u00e9mail ? – dans les mains de la famille d\u2019Antoine Sanguinetti, amiral et homme politique fran\u00e7ais apr\u00e8s avoir suivi une piste sinueuse de dons et de contre-dons. Avant de regagner les collections Chaumet quelques ann\u00e9es plus tard.<\/p>\n

Les tr\u00e9sors de haute-joaillerie n\u2019\u00e9chapp\u00e8rent pas non plus \u00e0 la cupidit\u00e9 des nazis qui spoli\u00e8rent des centaines de familles juives de leurs biens. Hermann G\u00f6ring, l\u2019un des principaux dignitaires du r\u00e9gime, se constitua notamment une importante collection d\u2019oeuvres d\u2019art et de bijoux issus de ces pillages qu\u2019il se faisait livrer par convois entiers depuis Paris. Il couvrait \u00e9galement son uniforme de parures et \u00e9tait connu pour parader avec colliers, bagues et gourmettes.<\/p>\n

Briller<\/em> est une parfaite illustration \u00ab des splendeurs et des cruaut\u00e9s du monde \u00bb.<\/p>\n

Aude Seyssel<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Marie-Louise L\u00e9opoldine Fran\u00e7oise Th\u00e9r\u00e8se Lucie de Habsbourg-Lorraine\u00a0; Guido Henckel von Donnersmarck\u00a0; Victoire Fran\u00e7oise de Saint-Mauris-Montbarrey\u2026 Il faut aimer les dynasties, les sagas familiales, les amours licites et illicites, les rois et les reines, les mondaines et les demi-mondaines, les trahisons spectaculaires, les fuites \u00e9perdues, les couronnements et les disgr\u00e2ces pour se plonger dans Briller de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":10431,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1167],"tags":[1491,1664],"class_list":["post-10411","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-livre","tag-essai","tag-luxe"],"yoast_head":"\n[\u00c9d. 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