{"id":10491,"date":"2026-09-30T08:08:37","date_gmt":"2026-09-30T06:08:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=10491"},"modified":"2026-10-02T17:30:10","modified_gmt":"2026-10-02T15:30:10","slug":"ed-stock-une-table-a-soi-de-tommaso-melilli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/ed-stock-une-table-a-soi-de-tommaso-melilli\/","title":{"rendered":"[\u00c9d. Stock] \u00ab Une table \u00e0 soi \u00bb de Tommaso Melilli"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"\" align=\"justify\"><strong>\u00ab Il ne suffit pas qu\u2019un aliment soit bon \u00e0 manger, encore faut-il qu\u2019il soit bon \u00e0 penser \u00bb, \u00e9crivait l\u2019anthropologue Claude Levi-Strauss. Tommaso Melilli ne dit pas autre chose dans <em>Une table \u00e0 soi,<\/em> publi\u00e9e aux \u00e9ditions Stock. Le chef milanais, qui s\u2019est fait conna\u00eetre avec <em>L\u2019Ecume des p\u00e2tes<\/em> (2021), s\u2019attache davantage \u00e0 l\u2019esprit qu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019assiette. Contrairement \u00e0 ce que peut laisser penser le sous-titre de son r\u00e9cit, \u00ab Histoire secr\u00e8te du restaurant \u00bb, il ne convoque pas les si\u00e8cles pour retracer m\u00e9thodiquement les d\u00e9veloppements de nos bistrots et autres auberges. S\u2019il remonte avant la R\u00e9volution fran\u00e7aise pour trouver les racines des \u00ab bouillons restaurants \u00bb &#8211; cens\u00e9s restaurer les h\u00f4tes \u00e0 tous les sens du terme &#8211; il s\u2019attache surtout \u00e0 nous livrer sa vision de la cuisine actuelle. Une vision de l\u2019int\u00e9rieur, \u00ab du point de vue de quelqu\u2019un qui produit, tous les jours, un minuscule flocon de neige de cette histoire s\u00e9culaire. \u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"\" align=\"justify\">Ce point de vue original vaut \u00e0 lui seul la lecture. Tommaso Melilli fustige en effet les tendances qui, peu \u00e0 peu, transforme et d\u00e9nature l\u2019esprit de la cuisine. Les <i class=\"\">ghost Kitchen<\/i> (restaurant sans lieu d\u00e9di\u00e9), <i class=\"\">co<\/i><i class=\"\">m<\/i><i class=\"\">fort food<\/i> et autre <i class=\"\">concept stores<\/i>. Il d\u00e9plore le piste glissante de la nostalgie sur laquelle nous sommes engag\u00e9s, alors que la vocation des cheffes et des chefs est de cr\u00e9er, inventer, innover : \u00ab D\u00e9sormais, et peut-\u00eatre de plus en plus, le \u00ab nouveau \u00bb en cuisine, l\u2019excitant, les plats que tout le monde veut go\u00fbter, ont souvent la forme ou le nom d\u2019une recette que nous connaissons depuis notre plus tendre enfance. \u00bb Ainsi du plat concoct\u00e9 par R\u00e9my dans le film <em>Ratatouille<\/em> qui finit par venir \u00e0 bout du terrible critique culinaire Anton Ego. Ou, plus concr\u00e8tement, du chef Fulvio Pierangelini qui, \u00e0 la t\u00eate du restaurant Gambero Rosso en Toscane, connut un succ\u00e8s retentissant avec ses spaghetti al pomodoro (spaghettis \u00e0 la tomate) vendus par provocation 50 euros le plat\u2026 Une attirance pour la nostalgie qui \u00ab inqui\u00e8te \u00bb Tommaso Melilli par sa propension \u00e0 \u00ab infantiliser nos d\u00e9sirs. \u00bb<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_10494\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-10494\" style=\"width: 662px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.editions-stock.fr\/livre\/une-table-soi-9782234096394\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-10494\" src=\"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/une-table-a-soi.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"662\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/une-table-a-soi.png 662w, https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/une-table-a-soi-199x300.png 199w, https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/une-table-a-soi-278x420.png 278w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 662px) 100vw, 662px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-10494\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">&#8220;Une Table \u00e0 soi&#8221;, paru le 30\/09\/2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"\" align=\"justify\">Tommaso Melilli veut porter haut les couleurs de son art \u00ab parce qu\u2019une id\u00e9e de nourriture est aussi une id\u00e9e de l\u2019existence. \u00bb Notons que dans la course actuelle aux tendances, le restaurateur italien, qui a longtemps v\u00e9cu et travaill\u00e9 \u00e0 Paris, dresse un constat assez sombre de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise : \u00ab Depuis quelques d\u00e9cennies, la cuisine italienne (\u2026) poursuit sa qu\u00eate pour d\u00e9tronner la cuisine fran\u00e7aise et la remplacer. Aujourd\u2019hui, m\u00eame en dehors de l\u2019Europe, cette bataille semble gagn\u00e9e : la cuisine italienne est \u00e0 bien des \u00e9gards plus accord\u00e9e au go\u00fbt de notre \u00e9poque. Elle accorde davantage de place au v\u00e9g\u00e9tal, et tout para\u00eet plus simple et moins cher \u00e0 confectionner. \u00bb<\/p>\n<p class=\"\" align=\"justify\">L\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat d\u2019<em class=\"\">Une table \u00e0 soi<\/em> est dans cette question aussi simple que vertigineuse, \u00e0 laquelle Tommaso Melilli tente de r\u00e9pondre : \u00e0 quoi servent les restaurants, encore aujourd\u2019hui ? Pas seulement \u00e0 nous nourrir, r\u00e9pond-il en substance, mais \u00e0 fabriquer du lien, du d\u00e9sir, du souvenir et, en d\u00e9finitive, offrir une certaine id\u00e9e du monde. Le restaurant est un lieu o\u00f9 l\u2019on se retrouve entre amis ou inconnus, o\u00f9 l\u2019on se rencontre, o\u00f9 l\u2019on se montre, o\u00f9 l\u2019on invente et o\u00f9 l\u2019on raconte. Un espace \u00e0 nul autre pareil qui allie la libert\u00e9 de cr\u00e9er et le plaisir de partager. Il nourrit notre imaginaire.<\/p>\n<p class=\"\" align=\"justify\">Aude Seyssel<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00ab Il ne suffit pas qu\u2019un aliment soit bon \u00e0 manger, encore faut-il qu\u2019il soit bon \u00e0 penser \u00bb, \u00e9crivait l\u2019anthropologue Claude Levi-Strauss. Tommaso Melilli ne dit pas autre chose dans Une table \u00e0 soi, publi\u00e9e aux \u00e9ditions Stock. Le chef milanais, qui s\u2019est fait conna\u00eetre avec L\u2019Ecume des p\u00e2tes (2021), s\u2019attache davantage \u00e0 l\u2019esprit [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":10512,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1167],"tags":[1491,1659,1306],"class_list":["post-10491","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-livre","tag-essai","tag-hedonisme","tag-restaurant"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>[\u00c9d. 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