{"id":5150,"date":"2025-06-16T12:55:04","date_gmt":"2025-06-16T10:55:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=5150"},"modified":"2026-05-03T14:35:28","modified_gmt":"2026-05-03T12:35:28","slug":"basilique-saint-denis-oubliee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/basilique-saint-denis-oubliee\/","title":{"rendered":"La basilique de Saint-Denis : la grande oubli\u00e9e"},"content":{"rendered":"

Coup de gueule \u00e0 propos de la basilique de Saint-Denis (Seine-Saint-Denis) ! Sous les vo\u00fbtes gothiques reposent, ou ont repos\u00e9, plus de 70 rois et reines de France. Clovis, Dagobert, Fran\u00e7ois\u202fIer, Catherine de M\u00e9dicis, Louis XVI et Marie-Antoinette\u2026 Tous y dorment, ou du moins ce qu\u2019il reste d\u2019eux depuis les profanations r\u00e9volutionnaires. La m\u00e9moire de plus de mille ans de monarchie affleure ici. <\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"Un lieu en friche<\/span><\/h3>\n

A peine 140\u202f000 visiteurs par an, \u00e0 comparer aux 19\u202fmillions de Notre-Dame de Paris<\/a> ou aux 13\u202fmillions du Sacr\u00e9-C\u0153ur. D\u00e8s l\u2019entr\u00e9e, le malaise s\u2019installe. LCe monument majeur de l\u2019histoire de France se pr\u00e9sente comme une \u00e9glise de village d\u00e9laiss\u00e9e. Les estrades sont vides, les tables pouss\u00e9es dans les coins, des bouquets de fleurs artificielles poussi\u00e9reuses, des prospectus punais\u00e9s sur des tableaux\u2026 <\/span>Rien n\u2019est mis en sc\u00e8ne. Peu de choses sont expliqu\u00e9es pour ceux qui ne prennent pas d\u2019audio-guide. O\u00f9 sont les cartels clairs ? Les dispositifs narratifs qui aideraient \u00e0 comprendre les symboles, les dynasties, les enjeux de pouvoir ? M\u00eame les gisants sont souvent anonymes. Dans la crypte, l\u2019\u00e9clairage plonge les st\u00e8les dans une p\u00e9nombre qui gomme les d\u00e9tails. On avance presque \u00e0 t\u00e2tons, sans pouvoir d\u00e9chiffrer les \u00e9pitaphes de nos plus grands rois..<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h3>\n

Un pan entier de l’histoire perdu<\/h3>\n

On passe ainsi devant les tombeaux de Charles V, Louis XII, Henri II sans comprendre leur geste, leur posture, leur fonction. Rien, ou si peu, n\u2019est dit sur les guerres de succession, les liens entre lign\u00e9es, les figures f\u00e9minines comme Anne de Bretagne, Isabeau de Bavi\u00e8re ou Catherine de M\u00e9dicis. Et que dire de Fran\u00e7ois Ier et Claude de France dont on distingue mieux leurs pieds que le visage ? Nul visiteur ne peut comprendre que les d\u00e9pouilles royales, exhum\u00e9es pendant la R\u00e9volution, furent jet\u00e9es dans des fosses communes, avant d\u2019\u00eatre partiellement r\u00e9inhum\u00e9es sous la Restauration. Ce pan entier de notre histoire m\u00e9rite mieux qu\u2019un parcours d\u00e9sincarn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Un chef-d\u2019\u0153uvre du gothique \u00e0 l’abandon<\/h3>\n

L\u2019abbatiale de Saint-Denis, chef-d\u2019\u0153uvre du gothique initi\u00e9 par l\u2019abb\u00e9 Suger en 1135, fut le berceau d\u2019une vision politique et spirituelle du pouvoir. L\u2019architecture elle-m\u00eame \u00e9tait un outil de l\u00e9gitimation monarchique. Suger a c\u00e9l\u00e9br\u00e9 \u00e0 la fois la gloire de Dieu et celle des rois. Baign\u00e9 de lumi\u00e8re, le ch\u0153ur figure la J\u00e9rusalem c\u00e9leste. Le d\u00e9ambulatoire permet au visiteur de circuler autour des tombes comme dans une liturgie perp\u00e9tuelle. En pla\u00e7ant les souverains au plus pr\u00e8s de l\u2019autel, au c\u0153ur de l\u2019espace sacr\u00e9, il affirme que leur autorit\u00e9 vient de Dieu. La basilique fonde une continuit\u00e9 dynastique. Elle incarne le lien indissoluble entre pouvoir temporel et pouvoir spirituel. Et aujourd\u2019hui ? Rien de tout cela ne transpara\u00eet.<\/p>\n

La fl\u00e8che nord bient\u00f4t restaur\u00e9e<\/h3>\n

Le contraste est d\u2019autant plus frappant que la basilique se pr\u00e9pare \u00e0 retrouver, apr\u00e8s plus de 180 ans d\u2019absence, sa c\u00e9l\u00e8bre fl\u00e8che nord. Le chantier a d\u00e9but\u00e9 en mars 2025. Les fouilles arch\u00e9ologiques ont r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 des s\u00e9pultures m\u00e9rovingiennes. L\u2019objectif est clair : rendre \u00e0 Saint-Denis son allure originelle d\u2019ici \u00e0 2029. Voil\u00e0 qui est louable ! Mais on aurait aim\u00e9 qu\u2019un projet tout aussi ambitieux vienne d\u00e9poussi\u00e9rer l\u2019int\u00e9rieur.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h3>\n

Les Gisants de lumi\u00e8re<\/h3>\n

Dans ce contexte, l\u2019exposition temporaire visible, “Les Gisants de lumi\u00e8re de la peintre am\u00e9ricaine Gael Mooney” laisse perplexe. Sans remettre en cause la sinc\u00e9rit\u00e9 du geste artistique, on ne peut que s\u2019interroger sur le choix du lieu. La basilique de Saint-Denis porte une telle charge symbolique qu\u2019elle devrait \u00eatre r\u00e9serv\u00e9e \u00e0 des expositions \u00e0 la hauteur de ce qu\u2019elle repr\u00e9sente : la matrice de l\u2019histoire de France.<\/p>\n

Un tr\u00e9sor national non encore class\u00e9 !<\/h3>\n

Et dire qu\u2019elle n\u2019est toujours pas class\u00e9e au patrimoine mondial de l\u2019UNESCO, alors qu\u2019elle figure sur la liste indicative depuis 1996 ! Aucun gouvernement n\u2019a, depuis, soutenu activement cette candidature. \u00c0 ce jour, le premier chef-d\u2019\u0153uvre gothique de l\u2019Occident, la n\u00e9cropole des rois de France, n\u2019a toujours pas franchi les portes de l\u2019institution internationale. Pire ! Elle est cern\u00e9e par le centre administratif Pablo-Neruda, massif et b\u00e9tonn\u00e9, construit en 1982 \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres \u00e0 peine du portail historique. Incompr\u00e9hensible.<\/p>\n

Triste constat<\/h3>\n

Les guides, pourtant, ne manquent ni de bonne volont\u00e9 ni de passion. Leurs discours sont souvent riches, vivants, document\u00e9s. Mais il est consternant de les voir assis sur leur petite chaise, comme \u00e0 une kermesse, attendant que leur groupe se pr\u00e9sente pour transmettre leur savoir. Alors oui, la fl\u00e8che revient. C\u2019est un symbole fort. Mais il faut aussi que l\u2019esprit revienne. Il faut rouvrir le r\u00e9cit, repenser le parcours, faire revivre les illustres d\u00e9funts autrement Ce lieu m\u00e9rite un projet mus\u00e9ographique \u00e0 la mesure de ce qu\u2019il incarne. Pas juste une fl\u00e8che. Une vision.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Coup de gueule \u00e0 propos de la basilique de Saint-Denis (Seine-Saint-Denis) ! Sous les vo\u00fbtes gothiques reposent, ou ont repos\u00e9, plus de 70 rois et reines de France. Clovis, Dagobert, Fran\u00e7ois\u202fIer, Catherine de M\u00e9dicis, Louis XVI et Marie-Antoinette\u2026 Tous y dorment, ou du moins ce qu\u2019il reste d\u2019eux depuis les profanations r\u00e9volutionnaires. La m\u00e9moire de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5154,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1166,1196],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-5150","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-masterpiece","8":"category-parcours-dart"},"yoast_head":"\nLa basilique de Saint-Denis : la grande oubli\u00e9e - GREAT-ARTMAG<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La basilique de Saint-Denis (Seine-Saint-Denis) laiss\u00e9e \u00e0 l'abandon. Elle n'est m\u00eame pas class\u00e9e Monuments historiques. Scandale !\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/basilique-saint-denis-oubliee\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La basilique de Saint-Denis : la grande oubli\u00e9e - GREAT-ARTMAG\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La basilique de Saint-Denis (Seine-Saint-Denis) laiss\u00e9e \u00e0 l'abandon. Elle n'est m\u00eame pas class\u00e9e Monuments historiques. 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