{"id":5932,"date":"2026-02-22T17:36:04","date_gmt":"2026-02-22T16:36:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=5932"},"modified":"2026-04-27T06:55:16","modified_gmt":"2026-04-27T04:55:16","slug":"arpege-alain-passard","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/arpege-alain-passard\/","title":{"rendered":"Haute gastronomie : L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge, le pr\u00e9lude v\u00e9g\u00e9tal sign\u00e9 Alain Passard"},"content":{"rendered":"

Au restaurant L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge \u00e0 Paris, le chef triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 Alain Passard compose en 2026 une nouvelle carte enti\u00e8rement v\u00e9g\u00e9tale. Ici, les l\u00e9gumes sont les solistes d\u2019un orchestre cultiv\u00e9 dans ses propres jardins, entre la Sarthe, l\u2019Eure et la Manche.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Un nouveau chapitre l\u00e9gumier s’ouvre \u00e0 L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge<\/h3>\n

N\u00e9 \u00e0 La Guerche-de-Bretagne (Ille-et-Vilaine), ce fils de musiciens et petits-fils de cuisini\u00e8re a h\u00e9rit\u00e9 d’une sensibilit\u00e9 double. Il a l’oreille pour le rythme et les papilles pour la composition. L’audacieux virage d’Alain Passard vers le “tout l\u00e9gume” date de 2001. La rupture radicale a red\u00e9fini la haute gastronomie mondiale. \u00ab Le jardin m\u2019apprend le temps<\/em> \u00bb, confie-t-il. R\u00f4tisseur de formation, il a obtenu ses deux premi\u00e8res \u00e9toiles \u00e0 seulement 26 ans au Duc d’Enghein. Alain Passard applique d\u00e9sormais le feu et la flamme \u00e0 la racine avec la pr\u00e9cision d’un sculpteur.
\n\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00ab Chaque saison me dicte une \u00e9motion diff\u00e9rente.\u00bb<\/h3>\n

Au printemps, Alain Passard cherche la vivacit\u00e9, la pousse tendre, l\u2019\u00e9clat vert. En \u00e9t\u00e9, il travaille la maturit\u00e9, la chair juteuse, les rouges solaires. \u00c0 l\u2019automne, il explore les notes toast\u00e9es, les rondeurs terriennes. L\u2019hiver, enfin, lui offre la profondeur, la racine, la concentration. Cette rotation renouvelle la cr\u00e9ation, oblige \u00e0 composer autrement, \u00e0 changer de rythme. \u00c0 L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge, le l\u00e9gume est une mesure qui revient, transform\u00e9e, enrichie d’une saison \u00e0 l’autre.<\/p>\n

Le velout\u00e9 de topinambours et betterave ouvre le bal en pr\u00e9lude soyeux : rondeur terrienne, vibrato l\u00e9g\u00e8rement sucr\u00e9, profondeur presque bois\u00e9e. Les poireaux \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tuv\u00e9e encha\u00eenent en andante d\u00e9licat, fondants, relev\u00e9s d\u2019une pointe saline. Chaque assiette joue sur les couleurs franches, pourpres, verts intenses, blancs nacr\u00e9s. Egalement, sur des textures superpos\u00e9es, comme des accords plaqu\u00e9s avec harmonie.<\/p>\n

\"\"Le \u00ab pliss\u00e9 \u00bb, terrine sculpturale, d\u00e9roule ses strates comme un motif r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9, alternant fermet\u00e9 et moelleux dans un contrepoint parfaitement ma\u00eetris\u00e9. La salade carottes-pomme, \u00e9lectris\u00e9e par un pralin d\u2019amandes de Majorque, apporte un staccato croquant, une percussion douce qui r\u00e9veille le palais. Puis vient le risotto de c\u00e9leri, napp\u00e9 d\u2019une sauce truffe : un largo enveloppant, presque orchestral, o\u00f9 le c\u00e9leri devient velours et la truffe une ligne de basse persistante. Le consomm\u00e9 chaud de poireau, carotte blanche et pomme agit comme un intermezzo limpide, clair comme une note tenue, r\u00e9v\u00e9lant la puret\u00e9 du l\u00e9gume sans artifice.<\/p>\n

\"\"Le final se d\u00e9ploie avec l\u2019oignon farci aux ch\u00e2taignes et herbes, escort\u00e9 de lentilles b\u00e9luga et de l\u00e9gumes r\u00f4tis. L\u00e0, le rythme s\u2019acc\u00e9l\u00e8re : la douceur sucr\u00e9e de l\u2019oignon, la m\u00e2che des lentilles, la tension l\u00e9g\u00e8rement caram\u00e9lis\u00e9e des l\u00e9gumes cr\u00e9ent un v\u00e9ritable mouvement en bouche. Celui qui a rachet\u00e9 L’Archestrate \u00e0 son ma\u00eetre Alain Senderens en 1986 pour en faire L’Arp\u00e8ge prouve qu’il a gagn\u00e9 en fougue.<\/p>\n

H\u00e9donisme v\u00e9g\u00e9tal : une c\u00e9l\u00e9bration du plaisir pur<\/h3>\n

Chez Alain Passard, l\u2019assiette est une offrande g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse o\u00f9 chaque l\u00e9gume est trait\u00e9 avec une infinie tendresse. Issus de ses propres jardins, ces tr\u00e9sors de la terre sont offerts au convive dans une profusion de saveurs et de textures. Enfin, cela t\u00e9moigne d’une volont\u00e9 constante de combler et d’\u00e9veiller les sens. Pour finir, on quitte la table l’esprit nourri par cet h\u00e9donisme v\u00e9g\u00e9tal avec le sentiment d\u2019un privil\u00e8ge assum\u00e9.<\/p>\n

> https:\/\/www.alain-passard.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Au restaurant L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge \u00e0 Paris, le chef triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 Alain Passard compose en 2026 une nouvelle carte enti\u00e8rement v\u00e9g\u00e9tale. Ici, les l\u00e9gumes sont les solistes d\u2019un orchestre cultiv\u00e9 dans ses propres jardins, entre la Sarthe, l\u2019Eure et la Manche.\u00a0 Un nouveau chapitre l\u00e9gumier s’ouvre \u00e0 L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge N\u00e9 \u00e0 La Guerche-de-Bretagne (Ille-et-Vilaine), ce fils de musiciens […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5933,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1304],"tags":[1305,1333],"class_list":["post-5932","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art-de-vivre-gastronomie","tag-cuisine","tag-haute-gastronomie"],"yoast_head":"\nHaute gastronomie : L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge, le pr\u00e9lude v\u00e9g\u00e9tal sign\u00e9 Alain Passard - GREAT-ARTMAG<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Au restaurant L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge \u00e0 Paris, le chef triplement \u00e9toil\u00e9 Alain Passard compose en 2026 une nouvelle carte enti\u00e8rement v\u00e9g\u00e9tale.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/arpege-alain-passard\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Haute gastronomie : L\u2019Arp\u00e8ge, le pr\u00e9lude v\u00e9g\u00e9tal sign\u00e9 Alain Passard - 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