{"id":6520,"date":"2026-04-02T14:18:01","date_gmt":"2026-04-02T12:18:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/?p=6520"},"modified":"2026-04-20T10:57:03","modified_gmt":"2026-04-20T08:57:03","slug":"livre-chanel-in-vogue-thames-hudson","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/great-artmag.com\/en\/livre-chanel-in-vogue-thames-hudson\/","title":{"rendered":"[\u00c9d. Thames & Hudson] “Chanel in Vogue”: Chanel \u00e0 travers les archives de Vogue"},"content":{"rendered":"

C’est un monument de papier qui vient de faire son entr\u00e9e dans les vitrines des plus belles librairies du monde. En ce mois de mars 2026, les \u00e9ditions Thames & Hudson frappent un grand coup avec la parution d\u2019un coffret anthologique sobrement intitul\u00e9 “Chanel in Vogue”. Plus qu\u2019un simple livre d’art, cet ouvrage scelle la rencontre entre l’histoire et le futur de la rue Cambon \u00e0 travers deux volumes d’une pr\u00e9cision chirurgicale.<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Orpheline \u00e0 12 ans, elle grandit dans un orphelinat avec ses s\u0153urs. Elle apprend la couture aupr\u00e8s de sa tante \u00e0 l’\u00e2ge de 18 ans et d\u00e9bute sa carri\u00e8re en 1903 dans un atelier qui fabrique des trousseaux et layettes. D\u00e8s 1907, attir\u00e9e par la sc\u00e8ne, Coco Chanel chante dans les caf\u00e9s \u00e0 Vichy.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Le premier volet nous plonge dans l’intimit\u00e9 cr\u00e9ative de Gabrielle Chanel (1883-1971), la b\u00e2tisseuse, celle qui a lib\u00e9r\u00e9 le corps des femmes. Le second, tout aussi foisonnant, analyse l’h\u00e9ritage colossal port\u00e9 par ses successeurs, de l’\u00e8re flamboyante de Karl Lagerfeld \u00e0 la vision contemporaine de Virginie Viard. Les 448 pages de l’ouvrage explorent la trajectoire de Coco Chanel \u00e0 travers plus d\u2019un si\u00e8cle d\u2019archives issues de Vogue. Entre photographies iconiques et t\u00e9moignages d\u2019\u00e9poque, le livre compose une fresque visuelle et narrative o\u00f9 la mode dialogue avec l\u2019histoire sociale et culturelle du XXe si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n

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La fr\u00e9quentation des relations de Balsan lui fait cependant rencontrer l’Anglais Arthur Capel, surnomm\u00e9 \u00ab Boy \u00bb ; elle devient sa ma\u00eetresse en 1909 et le suit \u00e0 Paris, o\u00f9 il lui offre sa premi\u00e8re boutique.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sous la plume d’une historienne de la mode, Rebecca C. Tuite, l\u2019ouvrage s\u2019ouvre sur les d\u00e9buts de Coco Chanel dans un monde encore corset\u00e9, o\u00f9 son regard radical transforme les silhouettes f\u00e9minines. \u00c0 travers les archives \u00e9ditoriales de Cond\u00e9 Nast, propri\u00e9taire de Vogue, se dessine une femme en rupture : Chanel lib\u00e8re le corps, impose le noir, d\u00e9tourne le jersey, et construit une allure qui devient langage. Les images r\u00e9v\u00e8lent autant les v\u00eatements que les contextes o\u00f9 se fabrique cette modernit\u00e9. Le r\u00e9cit met en lumi\u00e8re la mani\u00e8re dont Vogue a accompagn\u00e9, amplifi\u00e9 et parfois m\u00eame sc\u00e9naris\u00e9 cette r\u00e9volution esth\u00e9tique.<\/p>\n

\n

“Chanel nous a laiss\u00e9 quelque chose de mieux que la mode : le style. Et le style, tel qu’elle l’a pr\u00each\u00e9, ne se d\u00e9mode pas”, Karl Lagerfeld<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Au fil des pages, le double album restitue aussi la vie sociale intense de Chanel, ses cercles artistiques et ses affinit\u00e9s \u00e9lectives. La deuxi\u00e8me autrice, Susanna Brown est critique d’art sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9e dans la photographie de mode. Photographies de d\u00eeners, portraits vol\u00e9s, reportages dans ses appartements ou lors de voyages composent un r\u00e9cit vivant, presque cin\u00e9matographique. On y croise \u00e9crivains, artistes, musiciens, t\u00e9moins d\u2019une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 la mode s\u2019inscrit au c\u0153ur de la cr\u00e9ation. Loin d\u2019une simple biographie, l\u2019ouvrage montre comment Chanel devient une figure m\u00e9diatique avant l\u2019heure, ma\u00eetrisant son image tout en nourrissant le regard des photographes et des journalistes.<\/p>\n

Chaque page agit comme une archive ouverte. Des premi\u00e8res apparitions dans Vogue aux r\u00e9interpr\u00e9tations contemporaines, le livre souligne la permanence d\u2019un vocabulaire visuel : lignes \u00e9pur\u00e9es, \u00e9l\u00e9gance fonctionnelle, ind\u00e9pendance revendiqu\u00e9e. En r\u00e9unissant textes analytiques et iconographie exceptionnelle, les deux autrices livrent un travail \u00e9ditorial dense, o\u00f9 la vie de Chanel se lit comme un roman moderne, fa\u00e7onn\u00e9 par l\u2019image et le regard m\u00e9diatique.<\/p>\n

\u00c9diteur \u200f : \u200e THAMES & HUDSON
\nTitre : “Chanel in Vogue”<\/a>
\nDate de publication \u200f : \u200e 5 mars 2026
\nLangue \u200f : \u200e Anglais
\nNombre de pages\u200f : \u200e 448
\nPoids de l’article \u200f : \u200e 3,88 Kg
\nDimensions \u200f : \u200e 28.7 x 5.33 x 37.85 cm<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

C’est un monument de papier qui vient de faire son entr\u00e9e dans les vitrines des plus belles librairies du monde. En ce mois de mars 2026, les \u00e9ditions Thames & Hudson frappent un grand coup avec la parution d\u2019un coffret anthologique sobrement intitul\u00e9 “Chanel in Vogue”. Plus qu\u2019un simple livre d’art, cet ouvrage scelle la […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":6521,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1167],"tags":[1329,1402,1169],"class_list":{"0":"post-6520","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-livre","8":"tag-femmes-artistes","9":"tag-mode","10":"tag-photographie"},"yoast_head":"\n[\u00c9d. 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